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Oregon Geography: A Scenic Overview of the Pacific Northwest

 
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Introduction to Geography of Oregon

Oregon, one of the Pacific Coast states of the United States. Few states rival Oregon for scenic beauty and variety. The coast, in particular, is known for its spectacular unspoiled scenery. Forested promontories, high cliffs, broad sandy beaches, rock-strewn shores, tide pools, and sand dunes are some of the many coastal features. Among the other scenic attractions are Crater Lake National Park and the lofty volcanic peaks of the Cascade Range. The state has an outstanding system of parks, which attract millions of visitors each year.

Oregon has an area of 98,386 square miles (254,819 km2), It is the nation's ninth largest state.

Oregon's state bird is the western meadowlark.Oregon in briefGeneral informationStatehood: Feb. 14, 1859, the 33rd state.State abbreviations: Ore. or Oreg. (traditional); OR (postal).State capital: Salem, the capital since statehood in 1859. Earlier capitals were Oregon City (1849-1851), Salem (1851-1859), and Corvallis (1855, for six months).State motto: She Flies with Her Own Wings.Popular name: The Beaver State.State song: "Oregon, My Oregon." Words by J. A. Buchanan; music by Henry B. Murtagh.Symbols of OregonState bird: Western meadowlark.State flower: Oregon grape.State tree: Douglas-fir.State flag and seal: Oregon's state flag, adopted in 1925, bears elements of the state seal on a blue background. The seal, adopted in 1859, has 33 stars around a shield to show that Oregon was the 33rd state. The seal includes an ox-drawn wagon to symbolize the settling of the region by pioneers. The reverse side of Oregon's flag, not shown, has an illustration of a beaver, the state animal. Oregon is the only state whose flag has a different design on the reverse side.Land and climateArea: 97,052 mi2 (251,365 km2), including 1,050 mi2 (2,718 km2) of inland water but excluding 80 mi2 (207 km2) of coastal water.Elevation: Highest--Mount Hood, 11,239 ft (3,426 m) above sea level. Lowest--sea level.Coastline: 296 m. (476 km).Record high temperature: 119 degrees F (48 degrees C) at Prineville on July 29, 1898, and at Pendleton on Aug. 10, 1898.Record low temperature: –54 degrees F (–48 degrees C) at Ukiah on Feb. 9, 1933, and at Seneca on Feb. 10, 1933.Average July temperature: 66 degrees F (19 degrees C).Average January temperature: 32 degrees F (0 degrees C).Average yearly precipitation: 28 in (71 cm).PeoplePopulation: 3,421,399 (2000 census).Rank among the states: 28th.Density: 35 s per mi2 (14 per km2m), U.S. average 78 per mi2 (30 per km2).Distribution: 79 percent urban, 21 percent rural.Largest cities in Oregon: Portland (529,121); Eugene (137,893); Salem (136,924); Gresham (90,205); Beaverton (76,129); Hillsboro (70,186).EconomyChief productsAgriculture: beef cattle, greenhouse and nursery products, hay, milk, timber, wheat.Manufacturing: electronic equipment, food products, machinery, metal products, paper products, printed materials, transportation equipment, wood products.Mining: crushed stone, sand and gravel.GovernmentState governmentGovernor: 4-year term.State senators: 30; 4-year terms.State representatives: 60; 2-year terms.Counties: 36.Federal governmentUnited States senators: 2.United States representatives: 5.Electoral votes: 7.Sources of informationFor information about tourism, write to: Oregon Tourism Commission, 670 Hawthorne Avenue SE, Suite 240, Salem, OR 97301. The Web site at http://www.traveloregon.com also provides information.For information on the economy, write to: Oregon Economic & Community Development Department, 775 Summer Street NE, Suite 200, Salem, OR 97301-1280. The Web site at http://econ.oregon.gov also provides information.The state’s official Web site at http://www.oregon.gov also provides a gateway to much information on Oregon’s economy, government, and history.

Physical Geography

Oregon is one of the Pacific Coast States of the United StatesLand

The state is divided into five distinct regions: (1) the Coast Ranges, bordering the Pacific coast; (2) the Cascade Range, a parallel range to the east; (3) the Willamette Valley, a narrow lowland that separates the two ranges in the northwest; (4) the Columbia Plateau in the northeast; and (5) the Great Basin in the southeast.

The Coast Ranges consist of the Oregon Coast Range and the Klamath Mountains. Beginning at the Washington border, the Oregon Coast Range juts southward along the northern two-thirds of the coast. Low peaks with gentle slopes prevail, most being 2,000 to 4,000 feet (600 to 1,200 m) in height. The Klamaths, formed by the erosion of a former upland, are generally higher. Several peaks attain heights of more than 7,000 feet, (2,100 m). Like the Oregon Coast Range, they are fringed by narrow coastal lowlands and steep cliffs. Throughout the region dense forests mantle the slopes.

The Cascade Range, an extension of the Sierra Nevada of California, is the most rugged part of the state. Summits rise 5,000 to 7,000 feet (1,500 to 2,100 m) above sea level; some, especially the volcanic peaks, tower considerably higher Among them are Mount Hood, Mount Jefferson, and Three Sisters Mount Hood rises to 11,239 feet (3,426 m)—the highest point in the state.

The Willamette Valley, a continuation of the Puget Sound Basin of Washington, is a gently rolling lowland between the Oregon Coast Range and the Cascade Range. Not only is this one of Oregon's largest valleys, but it is also the economic heart and the most populous part of the state.

The Columbia Plateau is composed of thick lasers of lava In some areas, such as the Columbia and Snake river valleys, the lax a is covered by deep alluvial deposits, in others, notably the Blue and Wallowa mountains, remnants of the original surface are exposed. Throughout most of the region, the Columbia River's tributaries cut deep valleys Most spectacular of these is Hells Canyon, a gorge carved by the Snake River along the Oregon-Idaho border Except in part of central Oregon, there are few extensive areas of flat land.

The Great Basin consists of a series of basins, in which flat to hilly land prevails. Occasionally the terrain is broken by relatively high ridges, buttes, and mountains, such as the Fremont and Steens mountains. Except on wooded slopes, grasslands prevail Dotting the region are lava beds, salt flats, and desert.

Oregon's state tree is the Douglas-fir.Water

Draining much of northern Oregon is the Columbia River system—the Columbia itself and tributaries including the Willamette, Deschutes, John Day, and Snake They are by far the longest and largest rivers in the state. Rivers of the Coast Ranges that drain directly into the sea are general!) short and swift. The Rogue and the Umpqua are the longest. Short, seasonally flowing streams in the Great Basin end either in brackish lakes or in dry basins.

Freshwater lakes, including Upper Klamath and Crater lakes, lie primarily m the Cascades. Few occur to the west East of the Cascades are reservoirs impounded by dams and brackish natural lakes, both intermittent and permanent.

Climate

An unbroken belt of western mountains gives Oregon two climatic zones a mild, wet region west of the Cascade crest, and a more rigorous, drier climate to the east.

In the west, moist, tempering winds from the Pacific Ocean bring mild temperatures and moderate to heavy precipitation, mainly during winter. Along the coast January temperatures average 38° to 45° F. (3° to 7° C.); July temperatures average about 62° F. (17° C.). Precipitation varies from 55 to 130 inches (1,400 to 3,300 mm) a year, the larger amounts occurring on upper mountain slopes Toward the east summers grow warmer, winters cooler, and precipitation more moderate. There is little snowfall except on the higher slopes.

East of the Cascades, precipitation drops sharply, and temperature ranges increase. The mountains receive the most precipitation—35 to 60 inches (890 to 1,520 mm) a year Annual precipitation on the Columbia Plateau is generally less than 20 inches (510 mm); in the Great Basin, less than 10 inches (250 mm). In both the Plateau and Basin, January temperatures average below freezing, and July averages range from 68° to 80° F. (20° to 2 7° C.). Snowfall varies from 15 to 30 inches (380 to 760 mm) in the Columbia Valley and the Great Basin to 50 to 70 inches (1,270 to 1,780 mm) in the mountains.

VegetationOregon's state flower is the Oregon grape.

Oregon's vegetation generally corresponds to its two climatic zones. Dense evergreen forests predominate in western Oregon, where there is abundant rain and a mild climate. The Coast Ranges are forested chiefly with Douglas fir, Sitka spruce, western hemlock, and various cedars. The western slopes of the Cascades have thick forests primarily of Douglas fir, silver fir, and western hemlock; the eastern slopes have sparser forests chiefly of ponderosa pine, with some Douglas fir, western hemlock, larch, and lodgepole and white pine.

Grasslands and shrubs predominate east of the Cascades, where a relatively dry climate prevails. Scattered mountain ranges in this area, however, are forested. The Great Basin has mainly desert scrub vegetation.

Economy

The Oregon quarter features an image of Crater Lake, which is in the Cascade Mountains in south-central Oregon.

Oregon's economy is based largely on service industries. A large share of the state's employment is in manufacturing. Also important are wood processing and tourism.

Service Industries

Finance, insurance, and real estate leads Oregon's service industries. Portland is the state's main financial center.

Wholesale and retail trade is another important part of Oregon's economy. The Port of Portland, one of the largest ports on the West Coast, handles much wholesale trade, including the import of foreign cars and the export of wheat. Nike, one of the world's major wholesale distributors of athletic shoes and other sportswear, is based in Beaverton.

Agriculture

Oregon has two farming regions. In western Oregon, agriculture centers in river valleys, where farms produce a diversity of crops as well as livestock. Farms and ranches in the east are devoted mainly to livestock and wheat.

Crops account for most of the state's farm income. They are grown largely in the river valleys. Much of the cropland is irrigated.

The broad Willamette Valley is by far the leading producer of crops, poultry, and dairy products. From the western valleys comes the bulk of Oregon's fruits, vegetables, berries, and nuts. Oregon is one of the nation's leading producers of some of these commodities, including sweet cherries, pears, plums, filberts, strawberries, and green snap beans. The Rogue River Valley is notable for pears, and the Hood Valley is famous for apples. The western valleys also produce a variety of specialty crops, including seeds, bulbs, nursery stock, and hops.

Beyond the Cascades, the most extensive croplands border the Columbia, Deschutes, John Day, and Snake rivers. Wheat and hay are by far the leading crops. Oat and barley production is also widespread. There are several non-grain crops, such as potatoes and sugar beets in the Snake Valley.

Rangelands, which cover considerably more area than cropland, sustain large numbers of livestock. On the vast ranges of the east, beef cattle predominate. The chief animals raised in the west are dairy cattle, sheep, pigs, and poultry.

Forestry

Oregon is nationally prominent in the production of lumber. Almost half of the state's land is forested; most of the timber is of commercial quality. The federal government issues permits for logging in many areas. Douglas fir and ponderosa pine are the chief species cut. The state emphasizes reforestation and scientific forest management.

Manufacturing

Oregon's industries owe much to the development of cheap hydroelectric power, particularly on the Columbia River. Since World War II the state has undergone tremendous industrial growth. Almost a fifth of its workers are engaged in manufacturing.

Electronic equipment is Oregon's leading product. These products include computers, computer printers, and television sets.

The manufacturing of lumber and other wood products is another important industry in the state. Products include plywood, pulp, paper, composition board (hardboard and particle board), and veneer.

Food processing is also a high-ranking manufacturing industry. It includes the canning and freezing of vegetables, fruits, and berries; packing of fresh produce; and preparation of dairy products. Although the industry is widely distributed, its main center is the Willamette Valley.

In addition to the long-established farm- and forest-based industries, new ones have developed with the expansion of power and population in the state. Particularly important are the production of primary metals, especially aluminum, and the fabrication of metal products. Other sizable industries in the state include the manufacturing of farm and factory machinery, transportation equipment, and scientific instruments. These industries are located almost entirely in the Willamette Valley, especially in the Portland metropolitan area.

Fishing

Fishing is one of the oldest economic activities in the state. Oregon has a significant annual catch. Among the most valuable fish are salmon, tuna, crabs, and shrimp.

Mining

Oregon has a wide variety of minerals, but few are of commercial importance. Nonmetals—principally stone and sand and gravel—account for most of the mineral production by value. Copper, gold, lime, and pumice are also produced.

Transportation

Except for the sparsely inhabited southeastern portion of the state, which has few highways, Oregon is well served by roads and highways. Two Interstate highways cross the state. One, I-5, runs north-south, between the Coast and Cascade ranges; the other, I-84, runs east-west, mainly along the Columbia River. U.S. highway 101, along the coast, is among the most scenic routes in the state. Oregon is served by several major freight railways and by Amtrak.

The Columbia River is the major inland waterway of the northwestern United States. Portland has a major seaport and handles ocean traffic by way of the Columbia and Willamette rivers. Other seaports include Coos Bay and Astoria. Oregon's busiest airport is Portland International.

The People

The population density of Oregon is 35.6 persons per square mile (13.8 per km2). Whites make up 86.6 per cent of the population and blacks, 1.6 per cent. Asians, especially of Chinese and Vietnamese origin, accounted for 3.0 per cent. Most of the American Indians in the state are from the Cherokee, Sioux, Chippewa, and Choctaw tribes.

Annual events in OregonJanuary-MaySled Dog Races in Chemult (January-February); Seafood and Wine Festival in Newport (February); All-Northwest Barbershop Ballad Contest in Forest Grove (early March); Spring Whale Watch Week on the Oregon coast (late March); Hood River Valley Blossom Festival (April); Pear Blossom Festival in Medford (mid-April); Rhododendron Festival in Florence (mid-May); Fleet of Flowers Memorial Service in Depoe Bay (late May).June-AugustCannon Beach Sandcastle Contest in Cannon Beach (June); Rose Festival in Portland (June); Strawberry Festival in Lebanon (early June); Oregon Bach Festival at Eugene (late June to mid-July); Butte to Butte 10K run in Eugene (early July); St. Paul Rodeo (early July); World Championship Timber Carnival in Albany (early July); Molalla Buckeroo (early July); Chief Joseph Days in Joseph (late July); Oregon Brewers Festival in Portland (late July); Astoria Regatta (mid-August); State Fair in Salem (August-September).September-DecemberOktoberfest in Mount Angel (mid-September); Cycle Oregon Bike Ride, different location each year (September); Lord’s Acre Day in Powell Butte (early November); Verboort Sausage and Sauerkraut Dinner near Forest Grove (November); Winter Whale Watch Week on the Oregon coast (late December).

Education

School attendance is compulsory from ages 7 to 18. The superintendent of public instruction heads the state department of education. He or she is popularly elected to a four-year term. The state board of education is appointed by the governor; its seven members serve four-year terms.

The first schools in Oregon were established by churches. The Methodists organized a school at Champoeg in 1834; the Roman Catholic church offered religious instruction as early as 1844 and opened a school in Portland in 1859. The first public school was opened in Portland in 1851; the first public high school, also in Portland, in 1869.

The University of Oregon, chartered in 1872 and opened in 1876, is in Eugene. It is the largest institution of higher learning in Oregon. Oregon State University, a landgrant college, is the oldest public institution of higher learning in the state. It was incorporated as Corvallis College in 1858. It adopted its present name in 1961. Its Marine Science Center, located in Newport, is a research center for oceanography. There are two state institutions in Portland—Oregon Health Sciences University, which has schools of medicine, dentistry, and nursing; and the University of Portland. The Oregon Institute of Technology is at Klamath Falls.

Interesting facts about OregonThe world's largest forest of lava-cast trees is located on the slopes of Newberry Volcano in Deschutes National Forest, south of Bend. The imprint of pine bark is still visible on the insides of many casts, which were formed about 6,000 years ago when molten lava flowed into a living pine forest. The lava cooled against the tree trunks, which caught fire and burned away, leaving perfect molds. The forest covers about 4 square miles (10 square kilometers).The first state antilitter law affecting nearly all beverage containers was passed by the Oregon legislature on July 2, 1971, and became effective on Oct. 1, 1972. The “Oregon bottle bill” outlaws pull-tab cans and requires that all beverage cans and most types of bottles be returnable for a cash refund.The world's smallest official park is located on a traffic island on S. W. Front Avenue in Portland. Mill Ends Park is 24 inches (61 centimeters) across and has a total area of 452 square inches (2,916 square centimeters). A Portland journalist, Dick Fagan, created the park on St. Patrick's Day, 1948, as a colony for leprechauns and a site for snail races. It became a city park in 1976.

Government

Oregon's State Capitol is in Salem, the capital since statehood in 1859.

Oregon is governed under its original constitution (adopted in 1857, effective in 1859), which has been amended many times. Oregon became one of the first states to adopt the initiative and referendum (1902) and the primary election (1904). It was the first to adopt the recall (1908). These and other political reform measures were called the Oregon System.

The Legislative Assembly consists of a Senate of 30 members elected for four-year terms and a House of Representatives of 60 elected for two-year terms. The legislature meets in odd-numbered years.

Elected officials of the executive branch are the governor, secretary of state, treasurer, attorney general, superintendent of public instruction, and labor commissioner. All are elected for four-year terms. There is no lieutenant governor. If the governorship becomes vacant, it goes to the secretary of state.

The judiciary consists of the Supreme Court of seven justices, a court of appeals, a tax court, circuit courts, and various lesser courts. County courts are mainly administrative agencies, but some of them have certain judicial functions.

Oregon is divided into 36 counties. The state is represented in Congress by two senators and five representatives.

Governors of OregonNamePartyTermJohn Whiteaker Democratic1859-1862A. C. Gibbs Republican1862-1866George L. Woods Republican1866-1870La Fayette Grover Democratic1870-1877Stephen F. Chadwick Democratic1877-1878W. W. Thayer Democratic1878-1882Z. F. Moody Republican1882-1887Sylvester Pennoyer Democratic-Populist1887-1895William Paine Lord Republican1895-1899T. T. Geer Republican1899-1903George E. Chamberlain Democratic1903-1909Frank W. Benson Republican1909-1910Jay Bowerman Republican1910-1911Oswald West Democratic1911-1915James Withycombe Republican1915-1919Ben W. Olcott Republican1919-1923Walter M. Pierce Democratic1923-1927I. L. Patterson Republican1927-1929A. W. Norblad Republican1929-1931Julius L. Meier Independent1931-1935Charles H. Martin Democratic1935-1939Charles A. Sprague Republican1939-1943Earl Snell Republican1943-1947John H. Hall Republican1947-1949Douglas McKay Republican1949-1952Paul L. Patterson Republican1952-1956Elmo Smith Republican1956-1957Robert D. Holmes Democratic1957-1959Mark O. Hatfield Republican1959-1967Tom McCall Republican1967-1975Robert W. Straub Democratic1975-1979Victor G. Atiyeh Republican1979-1987Neil Goldschmidt Democratic1987-1991Barbara Roberts Democratic1991-1995John Kitzhaber Democratic1995-2003Ted Kulongoski Democratic2003-