Introduction to Geography of Alaska
Alaska, one of the Pacific Coast states of the United States. Like Hawaii, it is geographically separated from the rest of the country. Alaska is by far the largest state (more than twice the size of Texas). Its 656,424 square miles (1,700,139 km2) account for almost one-sixth of the nation's area. The general coastline—more than 6,600 miles (10,600 km)—is longer than the coastlines of all the other states combined. Alaska has few inhabitants, however—fewer than any other state.
Alaska is mainly a wilderness of great natural beauty, one largely unchanged by humans. In the north lies a barren arctic plain, like other polar regions a “land of the midnight sun.” Here may best be seen the colorful aurora borealis, or northern lights. Equally impressive are Alaska's majestic mountains, capped by ice and snow and cut by enormous glaciers.
Despite its northern latitude and remote location, Alaska is a frontier land of increasing opportunity. Its vast resources of forests, minerals, and fish provide the basis for an expanding economy.
Alaska's state bird is the willow ptarmigan.Alaska in briefGeneral informationStatehood: Jan. 3, 1959, the 49th state.State abbreviation: AK (postal).State capital: Juneau, the capital of Alaska since 1900. Sitka served as capital from 1884 to 1900.State motto: North to the Future.Popular name: The Last Frontier.State song: "Alaska's Flag." Words by Marie Drake; music by Elinor Dusenbury.Symbols of AlaskaState bird: Willow ptarmigan.State flower: Forget-me-not.State tree: Sitka spruce.State flag: Alaska's state flag, adopted in 1927, was designed by a 13-year-old schoolboy. Seven gold stars, representing Alaska's gold resources, form the Big Dipper. An eighth star in the corner is the North Star, symbolizing Alaska's location in the Far North.State seal: The state seal was adopted in 1913. It has symbols, relating to Alaska's economy, for agriculture, fishing, forestry, mining, and transportation. The rays above the mountains represent the northern lights.Land and climateArea: 587,878 mi2. (1,522,596 km2), including 17,502 mi2 (45,329 km2) of inland water but excluding 27,355 mi2 (70,848 km2) of coastal water.Elevation: Highest--Mount McKinley, 20,320 ft (6,194 m) above sea level. Lowest--sea level.Coastline: 6,640 mi (10,686 km).Record high temperature: 100 degrees F (38 degrees C) at Fort Yukon on June 27, 1915.Record low temperature: –80 degrees F (–62 degrees C) at Prospect Creek, near Stevens Village, on Jan. 23, 1971.Average July temperature: 55 degrees F (13 degrees C).Average January temperature: 5 degrees F (–13 degrees C).Average yearly precipitation: 55 in (140 cm).PeoplePopulation: 626,932.Rank among the states: 48th.Density: 107 persons per 100 mi2 (41 per 100 km2), U.S. average 78 per mi2 (30 per km2).Distribution: 66 percent urban, 34 percent rural.Largest cities in Alaska: Anchorage (260,283); Juneau (30,711); Fairbanks (30,224); College (11,402); Sitka (8,835); Ketchikan (7,922).EconomyChief productsFishing industry: cod, crab, halibut, pollock, salmon.Manufacturing: food products, petroleum products.Mining: gold, lead, natural gas, petroleum, sand and gravel, silver, zinc.GovernmentState governmentGovernor: 4-year term.State senators: 20; 4-year terms.State representatives: 40; 2-year terms.Organized boroughs: 16.Federal governmentUnited States senators: 2.United States representatives: 1.Electoral votes: 3.Sources of informationFor information about tourism, write to: Alaska Travel Industry Association, 2600 Cordova Street, Suite 201, Anchorage, AK 99503. The association's Web site at http://www.travelalaska.com provides more information.For information on the economy, write to: Alaska Department of Commerce, Community & Economic Development, P.O. Box 110800, Juneau, AK 99811-0800.The state's official Web site at http://www.state.ak.us also provides a gateway to much information on Alaska's economy, government, and history.Physical Geography
Alaska, the largest state in the United States, lies in the northwest corner of North America.LandAlaska's large size is matched by its great variety of surface features. Extending east-west across the state in rough bands are four regions: the North, or Arctic, Slope; the Brooks Range; the Central Uplands and Plains; and the Pacific Mountains.
The North Slope begins at the Arctic Ocean as an almost featureless plain. It is marked by shallow river valleys, sparse tundra vegetation, and numerous ponds, swamps, and marshes. Toward the south it becomes more rolling, especially at the edge of the Brooks Range.
The Brooks Range, a continuation of the Rocky Mountains, rises abruptly above the North Slope as a wall of peaks reaching elevations of 4,000 to 9,000 feet (1,200 to 2,700 m). This mountainous region includes several smaller ranges, notably the De Long, Baird, Endicott, and Philip Smith mountains. The northern limit of tree growth follows a zigzag pattern through the Brooks Range.
The Central Uplands and Plains region lies between the Brooks Range and the Pacific Mountains along the Gulf of Alaska. It is a vast expanse of alluvial lowlands and eroded, mountainous plateaus. The heavily eroded Seward, Koyukuk, Yukon, and Kuskokwim uplands overlook the broad, flat plains of the Yukon River system. Valleys are wooded but many of the uplands are barren. There are also areas that resemble the frost-scarred North Slope. In the Bering Sea lie two of the state's largest islands—Nunivak and St. Lawrence.
The Pacific Mountains consist of several major ranges that extend in a wide arc from the Aleutian Islands through the Panhandle, the narrow strip of Alaska between Canada and the ocean. These mountains are marked by jagged ridges, glaciers, deep valleys, and fjords. Snow-covered peaks jut out high above the lower, forested slopes.
The Aleutian Range, dotted by several active volcanoes, runs the length of the Alaska Peninsula. It merges on the northeast with the massive Alaska Range, site of 20,320-foot (6,194-m) Mount McKinley, the loftiest peak in North America. Rugged, towering peaks also mark the Chugach, Wrangell, and St. Elias mountains. Mount St. Elias, for example, soars to 18,008 feet (5,489 m) on the Alaskan-Canadian border. Glaciers flank many of the peaks; some, such as Bering, Guyot, Malaspina, and Muir glaciers, descend all the way to the sea.
In several areas the ranges of the Pacific Mountains are separated by lowlands, part of a series of troughs extending as far south as Washington and Oregon. These lowlands reach their greatest size in the basins around Anchorage. Islands and island groups include the Aleutians, the Alexander Archipelago, and Kodiak.
WaterHundreds of streams and rivers drain the state, but there are few large lakes. The chief river system is the Yukon, which flows into the Bering Sea. With its main tributaries, the Tanana and Koyukuk rivers, the Yukon drains most of central Alaska. The Kuskokwim River system, which flows through the southwest, also drains into the Bering Sea. In the north are the Colville and Noatak rivers; in the south, the Copper and Susitna rivers.
Largest lakes are Iliamna and Becharof, in the southwest, and Teshekpuk, on the North Slope. Small, deep lakes occur in mountainous areas, particularly in the southwest. Other small, but shallow, lakes are found in the alluvial lowlands along the Arctic and Bering Sea coasts.
ClimateChief influences on the climate are Alaska's northerly latitude, its large land mass, and its coastal waters. Except along the southeast coast, winters are long and bitterly cold. Summers throughout the state are short and cool. Precipitation, both rain and snow, varies from large amounts in the Panhandle to negligible amounts along the Arctic shore.
The Panhandle has a relatively mild climate because of the moderating effects of offshore ocean currents and winds. Average temperatures at Juneau, for example, vary from about 25° F. (-4° C.) in January to about 55° F. (13° C.) in July. Sitka's average January temperature is slightly above freezing. Precipitation for the year is close to 90 inches (2,290 mm) in most areas, but some receive as little as 25 inches (635 mm) and others more than 150 inches (3,810 mm). Snowfall amounts to about 100 inches (2,540 mm) a year.
The western coast, from the Aleutians to the Seward Peninsula, is cooler and drier than the Gulf of Alaska coast. At Nome, temperatures average about 4° F. (-16° C.) in January and 49° F. (9° C.) in July. Average yearly precipitation is about 20 inches (510 mm), including as much as 80 inches (2,030 mm) of snow. Cold, moist winds, frequent fog, and sudden storms often make this region unpleasant.
Temperature ranges increase and precipitation decreases away from the coasts. January temperatures average well below 0° F. (-18° C.). July temperatures generally are 60° to 70° F. (16° to 21° C.), though readings of 90° F. (32° C.) or more occasionally occur. Yearly precipitation is less than 15 inches (380 mm), including an average snowfall of 40 to 60 inches (1,020 to 1,520 mm).
On the North Slope, winters are severe, summers are cool, and freezes may come in the warmest months. Arctic waters have a slight modifying effect. Barrow averages -16° F. (-27° C.) in January and 40° F. (4° C.) in July. Precipitation is less than elsewhere in Alaska, seldom exceeding 8 inches (200 mm) a year. Snowfall averages about 28 inches (710 mm) annually.
Natural VegetationForests cover about one-third of the state. They vary from tall, dense coniferous (evergreen) forests in the south and southeast to the woodlands of mixed coniferous and deciduous trees in the interior. The southern and southeastern forests are dominated by Sitka spruce and western hemlock, occasionally mixed with red cedar, Alaska cedar, and some red alder and cottonwood. These forests rapidly diminish north of the Alaska Range. The interior woodlands are variously composed of white and black spruce, Alaska birch, cottonwood, balsam, and aspen. Farther north the trees become increasingly sparse and stunted.
Alaska's state flower is the forget-me-not.Much of the remaining land, especially in the interior and on the North Slope, is carpeted with low-growing tundra vegetation—grasses, mosses, and lichens—during the brief warm months. Most of the tundra region is underlaid by permanently frozen subsoil, called permafrost.
Interesting facts about AlaskaAlaska has the longest general coastline of any state. It measures 6,640 miles (10,686 kilometers), a distance greater than that of all the other states' coastlines combined. The coastline of the Alaskan mainland and all the major islands washed by tidewater measures 33,904 miles (54,563 kilometers).The Aleutian islands of Attu and Kiska were the only parts of North America occupied by Japanese troops during World War II. The islands were captured in 1942 and recovered by the United States in 1943.Alaska has more inland water than any other state --20,171 square miles (52,243 square kilometers). Inland water covers an area in Alaska larger than the area of Vermont and New Hampshire combined.Bald eagles gather in greater numbers along the Chilkat River just north of Haines than at any other place in the world. Each year, more than 3,500 of the birds come to this site to feed on late runs of salmon. The salmon are accessible because an unusual upwelling of warm water keeps the river free of ice.Alaska's state tree is the Sitka spruce.Economy
The utilization of its natural resources—especially fish, forests, and minerals—has long been Alaska's chief economic activity. Since World War II, however, and especially since statehood was achieved in 1959, a more diversified economy has developed. More of the resources are extracted and processed, and new industries have arisen.
Admission to statehood was followed by a sizable influx of people. This in turn brought increased housing and other construction, greater wholesale and retail trade, and improved transportation and communications. The tourist industry also grew considerably. The federal government is the largest single employer in the state, mainly through military installations and defense projects.
Manufacturing, other than the relatively simple processing of resources, is little developed. Most of the consumer goods and virtually all industrial equipment are imported. Manufacturing, however, has considerable potential because of the state's wealth of resources and possibilities for hydroelectric power. Probably the chief hindrance to industrialization has been the smallness of the population.
FishingBy value of the catch, Alaska is the leading fishing state, and the fishing industry is an important segment of its economy. Fishing fleets and canneries are major sources of income and employment in coastal cities of the south. Kodiak and Dutch Harbor-Unalaska are the chief fishing ports.
Salmon is the most valuable fish; the catch consists primarily of sockeye (red) and pink salmon. The crab catch, made up mainly of king and snow crabs, is also extremely valuable. Halibut and shrimp are also a significant part of the catch.
Mineral ProductionBy value, petroleum is the state's leading product. It was first discovered on the Kenai Peninsula in 1957; major deposits have since been found in Cook Inlet and in the Prudhoe Bay area on the North Slope. The Prudhoe Bay strike, made in 1968, is one of the largest ever made in North America. A pipeline, completed in 1977, carries oil 789 miles (1,270 km) from the Prudhoe Bay field to the ice-free port of Valdez for export. Natural gas is produced in the Kenai and Cook Inlet fields. The reserves are enormous but production is limited by the lack of adequate transportation facilities. Zinc is mined in large amounts near Kotzebue. The Greens Creek Mine, near Juneau, is one of the nation's largest silver producers. The state is also known for mining a significant amount of gold.
ForestryLumber and pulp wood are also among Alaska's principal products. The most important sources of timber are in the Tongass and Chugach national forests.
Their coastal location in the south makes water transportation of logs and wood products possible. Ketchikan and Sitka are among the cities with mills. Most of the forest products are exported, mainly to Japan. Interior forests of commercial quality are kept from full economic development by lack of transportation.
Tourism provides a significant and growing source of income for Alaska. The state is especially noted for the natural beauty of its wilderness, which includes rugged mountains, massive glaciers, and vast expanses of arctic tundra. Alaska's many state and national parks are major attractions for visitors.
AgricultureAlaska produces very little of the food needed in the state, for agriculture is limited in both area and production. Only a tiny part of the land is devoted to crops; the pastured area is somewhat larger. Most of the farming is carried on in the Matanuska Valley, northeast of Anchorage; the Tanana Valley, near Fairbanks; on the Kenai Peninsula; and on the island of Kodiak. Dairy products (mainly milk), beef cattle, barley, oats, hay, and potatoes are the chief products.
An extremely short growing season, frequent early and late frosts, and poor, thin soils hinder agricultural expansion. Much remains to be done in land utilization research.
TransportationAlmost all of the state's roads are in southern Alaska. The Alaska Highway, leading southeastward from Delta Junction (south of Fairbanks), is the only road link with the lower 48 states. Also in the south is all of the trackage of the state's two railways. One is the state-owned Alaska Railroad (between Seward and Fairbanks). The other is the privately owned White Pass and Yukon Railway (between Skagway and Whitehorse in Yukon Territory, Canada).
A passenger and automobile ferry service operates in the sheltered waters of the Inside Passage, between Skagway and Prince Rupert, British Columbia. There is also service to Seattle, Washington. In addition, ferry service is available between Anchorage, Kodiak Island, and Seward, and on Prince William Sound.
Air travel has been a major factor in opening Alaska's interior and north and west coasts to development. Airports at Anchorage, Fairbanks, and Juneau handle most commercial flights.
The People
Alaska's rank among the states in population moved up from 50th in 1990 to 48th in 2000. It remains one of the earth's most sparsely populated regions. The population density in 2000 was 1.1 persons per square mile (0.4 per km2).
Whites made up 69.3 per cent of the population. Of the nonwhites, most were native Indians, Eskimos, and Aleuts; blacks accounted for 3.5 per cent of the state's population; Asians, 4.0 per cent.
IndiansThe principal Indian groups in Alaska are the Tsimshian, Haida, and Tlingit tribes and seven small tribes belonging to the Athabsascan language family.
Mountainous, heavily forested southeastern Alaska is the home of the Tsimshians, Haidas, and Tlingits, whose ancestors migrated from Canada in the 18th and 19th centuries. Most of the Tsimshian Indians live along the Nass and Skeena rivers. The Haidas, located on Prince of Wales Island, and the Tlingits, settled along the coast from Ketchikan to Katalla, are distantly related. Both, particularly the Haida, are noted for their totem-pole carving. Most of the southeastern Indians are fishermen or work in fish canneries. They have generally abandoned their old tribal customs.
In the wide, flat river valleys west of Fairbanks in the Alaskan interior are various Athapascan Indians, whose forebears 700 to 800 years ago separated from the main body of related tribes now in Canada. Hunting and trapping are their main occupations.
EskimosThe Eskimos live along the Bering Sea and Arctic Ocean coasts and the lower Yukon River and Kuskokwim River regions. Scattered over this harsh and frigid area, they hunt, fish, trap, and herd reindeer. More than any other native Alaskans, the Eskimos have preserved their ancient customs and language. Yet even their traditional way of life is changing as the Eskimo, with his remarkable mechanical ability, is in increasing demand for work in the skilled trades.
AleutsInhabiting the Aleutian Islands and the Alaska Peninsula are the Aleuts. Although closely related to the Eskimos (both are descended from Asian migrants who came to what is now Alaska some 10,000 to 15,000 years ago), these people have their own customs, tradition, and language. They engage in sealing, fishing, and farming.
Annual events in AlaskaJanuary-JuneRussian Christmas in Sitka (early January); Winter Sunrise in Barrow (late January); Fur Rendezvous in Anchorage (February); Iditarod Trail Sled Dog Race (March); Pillar Mountain Golf Classic in Kodiak (March); Alaska Folk Festival in Juneau (April); Jazz and Classics Festival in Juneau (May); Little Norway Festival in Petersburg (May); Kodiak Crab Festival (May); The Midnight Sun in Barrow (mid-May); Sitka Summer Music Festival (June).July-DecemberWorld Eskimo-Indian Olympics in Fairbanks (July); State Fair in Palmer (August-September); Equinox Marathon Run in Fairbanks (September); Alaska Day Celebration in Sitka, commemorating the transfer of Alaska from Russia to the United States in 1867 (October); Alaska Bald Eagle Festival in Haines (November); Athabascan Fiddling Festival in Fairbanks (November); Great Alaska Shootout in Anchorage, featuring college basketball teams from throughout the United States (November).Education
A commissioner of education appointed by the state board of education supervises the state department of education. The board is appointed by the governor. Alaska enacted a compulsory school attendance law in 1929. Children must attend school from age 7 to 16.
The University of Alaska, a land-grant school, was founded in 1917 and opened in 1922 as the Alaska Agricultural College and School of Mines. The name was changed to University of Alaska in 1935. The main campus is in Fairbanks. There are other campuses at Anchorage and Juneau. The University of Alaska system also includes several community colleges.
Government
Alaska's State Capitol is in Juneau, the capital since 1900.Alaska's constitution was ratified in 1956 and became effective on admission to the Union in 1959. The constitution provides for a strong executive branch; the governor is given extensive powers, including supervision of all principal departments of government. The governor and lieutenant governor are elected together on the same ticket for four-year terms. The governor may not serve more than two consecutive terms, but the lieutenant governor may serve any number of terms. Most other officials of the executive branch are appointed by the governor with the consent of the legislature.
The legislature consists of a Senate of 20 members elected for four-year terms and a House of Representatives of 40 members elected for two years. It meets annually beginning in January.
Alaska's constitution provides for direct legislation through the initiative and referendum, and for the recall of elected officials.
The Supreme Court consists of five justices. Other courts include the Court of Appeals, the Superior Court, and district courts. The governor appoints judges from nominations made by a judicial council. Judges must be approved by the voters on a nonpartisan ballot every few years.
One-half of Alaska is divided into 16 administrative units called organized boroughs, which are similar to counties. The remainder of the state, which is sparsely populated, is unorganized and is administered by the state government. However, within this area, single-purpose administrative units, such as school districts, have been established.
Alaska sends two senators and one representative to Congress.
Governors of AlaskaNamePartyTermWilliam A. Egan Democratic1959-1966Walter J. Hickel Republican1966-1969Keith Miller Republican1969-1970William A. Egan Democratic1970-1974Jay S. Hammond Republican1974-1982Bill Sheffield Democratic1982-1986Steve Cowper Democratic1986-1990Walter J. Hickel Independent1990-1994Tony Knowles Democratic1994-2002Frank Murkowski Republican2002-2006Sarah Palin Republican2006-